A Favourite Street in Paris

One of the reasons people come to Paris is to eat and eat well — me included. So I was excited to learn that living in the 9th arrondissement, I was only blocks away from rue des Martyrs, where you can have one of the best gastronomic shopping experiences in this city.

Looking north towards Sacré-Cœur on rue des Martyrs

Rue des Martyrs: Named After A Saint

Rue des Martyrs offers a delicious promenade that leads along an old historic route to the start of Montmartre.

In fact, it was named after the first patron saint of Paris, Saint Denis, a Christian martyr who traveled this road back in the 3rd century and was beheaded for his beliefs.

That was ages ago of course. But if a martyr is someone who willingly dies for one’s beliefs, the only similarity I can draw is that you may simply die from a heart attack carrying or eating all the food you want to buy on rue de Martyrs!

A Gastronomic Tour

Starting at the intersection of rue des Martyrs and rue St Lazare, I am easily distracted as I head north, crisscrossing the road as something yummy catches my eye, dodging people and cars.

They will vacuum pack your cheese selections at La Fromagerie!

La Bucherie and La Fromagerie

I buy a free-range roasted chicken right off the rotisserie from the smiling butcher, then jay walk over to the little cheese shop where I feel very Parisian asking for a raw-milk Camembert infused with grated truffles. Formerly super intimidated to choose from hundreds of selections, I got smart. I asked my French friends to write down their favourite cheeses and then I went in with the list.

La Patisserie

Back on the street, I spy a giant quiche in the window of a pastry shop on the other side of the street and cross again to get a closer look.

Deep deep dish Zucchini Tomato Quiche

Translation “Eggs with Jelly” which sounds yuck in English. But they are delightful for lunch.

Colourful fruit stands are numerous where the berries are very expensive but the taste-simply wow!

La Boulangerie

Next I line up with the locals at the bakery where I pick up my daily bread — I ask for “une tradition, s’il vous plaît “ This is a baguette without any preservatives. It’s fresh and still warm, and like many Parisians, I cannot wait to break off the end (called “le croûton” in French) to snack on immediately.

Moving up the street, I stop in one of the many bistros for my daily café crème — with all this food shopping I need some caffeine!

Lots of cafés to choose from on this street

After that, I do slow down my shopping with a little, leisurely stroll in and out of the myriad of boutiques selling books, flowers, jewelry, designer clothing and macarons.

Everything is simply a feast for the eyes.

That’s enough for today, I turn around to head home, but before long am enticed into one of the Chinese dumpling shops where I pick up an assortment box of 12. They are steaming hot and the aroma is killing me.

They will be all eaten before I get back to the apartment.

At least two dozen dumplings to choose from

I am satisfied that I have everything I need for a day or two, although — maybe I will turn around and go back to get a piece of that quiche! What do you think?

If You Go…

You can sign up for a gastronomic tour of rue des Martyrs on Viator.com — and remember to bring a large shopping bag and plenty of time to enjoy the ambience.

Read more about this Parisian street at Rue des Martyrs Shopping Experience.

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Christine, working online with her students!

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Diana Bishop

Diana Bishop the founder of The Success Story Program and A Woman of a Certain Age in Paris as well as a well-known correspondent with over 25 years working for CTV, CBC News, and NBC News. She loves travel, writing, and all things Parisienne.

13 Comments

Karen Dorland on November 17, 2019 at 9:15 am

Yum. I am hungry just reading this article. What stands out is the appeal of the displays. Very enticing.

Doris Squires on November 17, 2019 at 10:08 am

Love your blogs. I feel like you have sent them to me personally. Keep up the good work and thanks Diana.

- Diana Bishop on November 17, 2019 at 10:14 am
  
  Doris, I just love hearing from you! i was so hungry when I wrote this blog! Thank you for the comment! Diana
  
  - Anne Teichroew on November 17, 2019 at 12:29 pm
    
    Love your blog Diana! A sensory and literal interpretation of Hemingways Moveable Feast…strolling down rue des martyrs feasting as you go!
    
    - Diana Bishop on November 19, 2019 at 8:48 am
      
      It is like A Moveable Feast.. you are so right Anne. Thank you so much for this comment. And also hope you are interested in winning the French Lesson next week! Keep commenting! Diana
      
- Shardie Stevenson on November 17, 2019 at 1:09 pm
  
  I do wish I had been on that street with you BFF! As a designer I am so enthralled by the fact that the displays of gastronomic delicacies are so very artistic! It’s no wonder that many Parisians shop every day! The experience is so gorgeous to the eye and simply delicious to boot! Magnifique!
  
  - Diana Bishop on November 19, 2019 at 8:47 am
    
    You are so right Shardie! It is the design of these shop windows that is really appealing…an art in itself!
    
Twink on November 17, 2019 at 10:32 am

The next time I go shopping I will be wishing I was in Paris instead of the IGA.

Monica Campbell on November 20, 2019 at 4:33 pm

Just a comment about your blog Diana, so happy to have found it through my bridge friend Nur Cowan…I am excited to learn more about the City of Lights where my only child Nicola and her family are staying for a few years. I will, of course have to learn this beautiful language, just like my little grandson who is already doing well at twenty months, would you believe! … I am also looking so much forward to discovering Paris, the Churches, the food places, the best way to discover Christmas in Paris…and all else…Roll in December…

- Diana Bishop on November 22, 2019 at 5:20 pm
  
  Monica.. so very exciting for you! You have the perfect excuse to learn French now!
  If you need a little boost, I know your would enjoy Christine Camm of simplyfrenchonline.com!
  Thank you so much for joining my blog community and please continue to comment and tell us
  about your travels in France!
  
Rosemarie Pedulla on November 22, 2019 at 5:34 pm

After having learned some French in Pau, at the age of 31 years, I have since taken up French conversation at our Collingwood library for the past 2 years and also work with a friend to improve my French from time to time, plus Duo Lingo, so hopefully when I arrive in Paris next May 8th, 2020, I will be able to converse with the French as I take a six week camino from Puy de Vallée in south western France over the Pyrenees to Roncesvalles. I will be 77 by this time!!. Here’s to those who love learning and the French language.

The Collingwood Library’s hour long conversation is open to all levels but it helps to have some background in French, as I did.

- Diana Bishop on November 22, 2019 at 5:38 pm
  
  Rosemarie,
  Thank so much for this comment. We are excited for you and your trip in May … the Camino is a challenging and inspirational journey
  from all that have done it. What a story you will have to tell when you get back! In fact wouldn’t we all love to hear about? Hmmmmm!
  Diana
  
Rosemarie Pedulla on November 22, 2019 at 5:40 pm

I forgot to leave a comment on this week’s blog which I have been following here and on Facebook and subsequently have saved a lot of restaurants and places to go once I arrive in Paris next year !
I enjoyed having you speak at Probus on the Bay and read your book about your GrandFather Billy Bishop!