Brasserie Lipp!
Welcome to another Paris luncheon adventure!
Brasserie Lipp is a legendary Paris institution that you may have heard of along with those two ultra-famous cafes, Café de Flore and Les Deux Magots that opened in the early 1900s’, and 1885 respectively.
In fact, the brasserie is right across the street on Blvd. St. Germain, and even older, opening on 27 October 1880 by its founder Léonard Lipp and his wife Pétronille.
Like the two cafes, Brasserie Lipp attracted a forward-thinking clientele of philosophers, writers, poets and other literary folk.
This was important to the second innkeeper Marcellin Cazes who in 1935 established the Prix Cazes, a literary prize awarded each year to an author who has won no other literary prize. Up to the present day, the prize is still going strong.
We didn’t have a reservation so mon amour et moi got there early at 11:30 am. The place was just starting to fill up for the noon rush.
Most tables are organized along banquettes where you can sit facing out. There are lovely linens, cutlery and Lipp branded china. Fortunately, we got a table near the front on the banquette which made it easy and fun to people watch.
Within a half hour, the place was living up to the definition of a brasserie, peaking decibel levels with the frenetic energy of the influx of patrons while waiters bustled from table to table offering prompt, speedy and impeccable service.
In the very early days, Lipp’s specialities were Alsatian influenced, the most popular dish, a cervelat (a popular Swiss sausage) rémoulade starter, en choucroute garnie,(dressed sauerkraut), served with the finest beers. The brasserie’s atmosphere and its modest prices made it an instant success.
Since 1990, the brasserie and its more traditional French fare has been progressively developed by the Bertrand family who also own of Angelina’s tea house, another of those major tourist haunts in Paris.
Among the current famous specialties of the Brasserie LIPP are Bismark herring, brandade de morue (cod) choucroute garnie, roast chicken, blanquette de veau (veal stew) and tête de veau (calves head–tried it once, not again!)
None of which we had.
I am hazy on what are the official names of the dishes we enjoyed.
Mon amour is fond of endive and leeks so we had a warm leek| poireau starter, and then some sort of beef with the creamy mashed potatoes.
All delicious.
Normally, I never eat dessert (sugar issues). However, on this day, I knew we could not leave without having Lipp’s famous profiteroles with ice cream which comes with a full pitcher of chocolate sauce on the side.
That alone was worth the trip!
I don’t even think anyone would have noticed.
Mon amour and I were seated almost shoulder-to-shoulder with our fellow diners on but it was as if we were worlds apart.
No one made eye contact.
I always want to say hello and ask where people are from but the French don’t do that unless they already know you.
I do appreciate that Parisians covet their privacy, especially in cramped quarters, but it also slightly offends my friendly outgoing North American sensibilities. Sigh.
I also had hoped the current chef Pascal Jounault would have made an appearance outside of the kitchen but of course, he was too busy for that.
His food attracts plenty, including many celebrities. Chef Pascal likes to post pictures of them on Instagram at @pascaljnlt.
Here are some former photos of celebs who visited Brasserie Lipp that you will know.
Overall I think Lipp is overrated but a fun experience to have once.
Have you been?
If you go: Go early or late!
Address: 151 Bd Saint-Germain, 75006 Paris, France
Open from 9am to 2am
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Diana Bishop the founder of The Success Story Program and A Woman of a Certain Age in Paris as well as a well-known correspondent with over 25 years working for CTV, CBC News, and NBC News. She loves travel, writing, and all things Parisienne.
Wish I had been wise enough to have had lunch before reading about your mouth-watering meal at Lipps! Sounds absolutely yummy and decadent!