Experience Saint-Paul-de-Vence!

I know one must expect a different experience when one returns to a spot or location that first enthralled!

 

That is indeed what happened when I returned to Saint-Paul-de-Vence, the incredibly stunning village perché| perched village jutting out over the French countryside only about an hour from Nice.

 

 

 

As I arrived by bus, it was just as thrilling as the first visit to spy on the village in the distance.

 

On top of that, it was a lovely day!

 

To start with.

 

 

Fortified with a coffee and croissant at Café de la Place, the main meeting spot outside the walled village,  I ventured past this map above and walked through the dark archway into a magical world.

 

Narrow winding cobbled streets, with elegant fountains, sculptures, and plenty of small galleries and restuarants. Not to mention the breathtaking views.

 

The area of Saint-Paul-de-Vence has been populated since around 400 BC but it was not until the 16th century that the walled city was built forming a one-kilometer perimeter confirming it as a military stronghold and royal town. (King François I‘s idea!) 

 

As with all hilltop towns, one is struck by the question of how ever did they build it!

 

 

 

The modern focus is contemporary art as the pieces inside and outside of the boutiques are colourful, bold and sometimes confronting.

 

It has been a haven for artists,, writers and philosophers over the last century.

 

Marc Chagall is buried here. He lived in the village from 1966 to 1985 when he painted the local landscapes.

 

Pablo Picasso and Jean-Paul Sartre were frequent visitors.

 

 

Back to My Story

So, I am drinking in all of this, most of which I had forgotten about, but getting hungry.

 

I had my heart set on eating at La Colobmbe D’or, the famous restaurant ($$$) and hotel (about 1000 dollars a night). But as it was already well into the lunch hour and I did not have a reservation,  I was out of luck.

 

Instead,  I settled for a lovely small restaurant on a terrace looking over the wall with the view of the countryside below.

 

 

 

The owner went into considerable depth to emphasize that her cuisine was pure Provençal and rigorously fresh and organic. 

 

I ordered an assortment of local fresh dishes, all cold.

 

That was went the weather changed.

 

 

 

The dark billowy black clouds that had been in the distance moved in, the wind picked up, and the temperature dropped 10 degrees.

 

Just like that.

 

Although under a small tent, I asked if it was possible to move indoors, only to learn the restaurant had a kitchen but no seating indoors.

 

What!!! Uh oh.

 

The food had been ordered so no going back.

 

I was especially glad that mon amour was with me because when the food arrived and the rain started, we huddled together shivering and wolfed down as much as we could on the large platter of local endive, tomatoes, beans, artichokes, tapenade and ratatouille with freshly baked country bread.

 

Oh, how I wish I had the time to savour it more.

 

 

Of course, at that moment we were sorry that we had not ordered one of the daily specials — lovely hot dishes made with local boar and such.

 

Sadly we quickly paid our bill and quickly hightailed it out of there to head right back to the warmth of the Café de la Place for hot coffee.  The place was humming.

 

A memorable visit.   One that I won’t forget anytime soon.

 

 

Fact:  The population of Saint-Paul-de-Vence is 3500

Fun Fact: American comic actors Gene Wilder and Gilda Radner were married in Saint-Paul-de-Vence by its mayor on 18 September 1984.

 

 

 

If you go: You can rent a car OR, you can take the train west to Cagnes-Sur-Mer (about 20 minutes from Nice) and catch the 655 bus outside the station. Note: It only seems to come around every hour usually on the hour.

If you are tired on the way home, you can take an Uber from St-Paul-de Vence to Nice or Cagnes-Sur-Mer (about 35 euros). After our freezing experience having lunch and with the pouring rain, that’s what we did. It was well worth it!

 

Did You Miss It?

Escape to OUR Château!

Broadcast is now available

on YouTube!

 

 

In 2021, Sara and Stephen Cole sold their house in Southern Ontario and embarked on an adventure of a lifetime.  They purchased a 6,500 square-foot 11-bedroom château in southwest France with 37 acres of land and two outbuildings.

Quite a change for this couple whose careers included a position as a senior corporate executive, and as a marketing and graphic designer, respectively.  However,  their business skills would come in handy as they organized themselves not only to prepare their château to live in themselves, but to also welcome guests, and to start a creative new business called Manor and Maker.

If you missed it, you can now watch the broadcast on YouTube by clicking on this link – CLICK HERE!

 

 

 

That’s all for now!

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