The Champs-Élysées!
I was skeptical that a “stroll” along the famous Avenue des Champs-Élysées was the right thing for this couple of jet-lagged seniors to do on our first day in Paris.
“Mon amour” suggested it as a good initiation back into the city.
My partner had not been to Paris in a very long time however, and I thought he still might have the romantic notion of a calm boulevard, shaded by the rows of London plane trees, lined with quaint cafés where we could watch real Parisians calmly strolling by.
The Champs-Élysées|Water colour by Janice Macleod, author of A Paris Year!
I personally avoided the Champs-Élysées on most of my previous trips knowing that it would be clogged with honking cars and the incessant flow of tourists. In fact, with eight lanes, on average three thousand vehicles drive up and down this street every hour and more than 70% of people walking on either side are tourists.
Still, we went, and I must say, despite all of that, walking arm and arm up this grand dame of all streets was no less than thrilling.
Les Champs-Élysées/A good place to start the walk up to the Arc de Triomphe
We began very close to Place de la Concorde able to see the 1.9 kilometers stretch right up to the stunning Arc de Triomphe, the military monument often referred to as l’Étoile |the Star, because it has a circular plaza from which radiates no less than 12 grand avenues!
The Arc de Triomphe looms large as we walk towards l’Étoile.
As we approached, it was staggering to see the grandeur of the Arc get closer and closer.
Of course, we had to stop and take a few pictures which requires one to wait for a green light then cross to the middle and wait your turn to step onto a small stoop to get the perfect shot.
A bit disconcerting when cars are whizzing by in both directions.
Got this shot very quickly before running back across to the sidewalk.
The landmark restaurants still dominate the Champs-Elysées but I think the lines to get in are longer every year.
Among the top two are the famous tea room Maison Ladurée with its alluring green belle époque facade and charming decor and towers of macarons and pastries.
The sign says it all — pure elegance!
A separate little terrace just outside the restaurant!
You can buy a box of macarons on the way out!
The other is Le Fouquet. I love its old-world charm and the fact that you might see a familiar actor sipping some champagne. Even the French president goes there occasionally I am told.
Le Fouquet caĎ and restaurant
Le Fouquet Interior
A humble chicken sandwich perhaps elevated by the sumptuous surroundings?
We did not see any celebs that day and a look at the menu had us rethinking our budget — 29 Euros|about 30 USD for a simple chicken sandwich. (The portions looked small too!)
Forget about it, we said and continued walking.
Les Champs Élysées/Designer Dress with jean jacket in a luxury brand window! Shabby chic on Les Champs Élysées?
Window shopping seemed cheaper as we passed the lineups at Chanel, Christian Dior, and Versace, but I would be lying if I told you we got away from the Champs-Élysées without dipping into our pockets. Well mon amour didn’t. He bought a jacket at Hugo Boss to add to his wardrobe.
Lineups galore at the French designer stores!
I love the jacket but it does sadden me that the global chain stores have moved in. They have played a part in diminishing the former elegance of the Champs-Élysées.
However, have you heard? There’s a new plan afoot for a refresh of this iconic boulevard — what they are calling the “greening” of the Champs-Élysées!
It’s still years away but proposes adding trees, benches, and gardens to give the street a more community-like feel.
Let’s see what happens.
What is your experience with this iconic avenue? Please leave a comment at the bottom of this blog where it says “Leave a comment” or “Read the comments.”
***NOTE: I am going to pick one of the comments to receive a Bonus Gift!
Les Champs Élysées/ Rendition of the future “greening” of this famous avenue.
*Featured Photo at the top of this blog is a water colour by Swiss artist Beatrice Elliker
The Paris Fan Club Series
Presents
“A Parisian’s Paris”
With My Guest
Edith de Belleville
Our Parisian Guest!
WHEN?
TUESDAY, September 26th 2023
12:30 pm EDT/9:30 am Pacific
***But you must be a MEMBER
of the PARIS FAN CLUB to ATTEND!
Edith de Belleville is “une vraie Parisienne”, born, bred and living in Paris. She is a lawyer by profession and also a licensed tour guide tailoring adventures in Paris about food, literature, art, and culture.
Edith is also the author of Parisian Life: Adventures in the City of Light and we will draw on her knowledge of Paris to find out about HER favourite cafés, restaurants, neighbourhoods, museums, and so much more.
This workshop is interactive so bring your questions for Edith and of course, I will have a little quiz for her and for all of you.
Hope you can join us.
Edith de Belleville hamming it up in Paris!
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PS I know you were expecting that the workshop called PARIS CHIC! would be with stylist Marie-Anne Lecoeur. Unfortunately, this has been delayed yet again. Marie-Anne mother’s passed away last March when her workshop was scheduled, and now she is dealing with her ailing father. She hopes to be back to me with a new date in 2024.
That’s all for now!
A la prochaine!
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Diana Bishop the founder of The Success Story Program and A Woman of a Certain Age in Paris as well as a well-known correspondent with over 25 years working for CTV, CBC News, and NBC News. She loves travel, writing, and all things Parisienne.
For many years when we have been in Paris, we have avoided the Champs-Elysees for the reasons mentioned. However, we will be in Paris later this month into early October, and the boulevard is, supposedly, to become pedestrian on Sunday, October 1st for a period of time that day. We are looking forward to strolling it then.
I did not know that Catherine, how fabulous. Now that would be worth a visit! Thank you for sharing this with us,
and have a wonderful time in Paris. Diana
i remember when we were fortunate to be living in Paris (my husband at the time working there) in the l960s there were few tourists and our favourite restaurant was le Drugstore…. every once in a while we would crave Canadian food… they had great hamburgers and there were no line ups…
Hi Pegi, I have actually never been there! It sounds good for a change from French cuisine! It always looks busy! Great to hear from you, Diana
My trips to Paris are always punctuated with a stop at George V for champagne and crepes.
Oh I soooo love the George V! My best friend took me there for the first time and we had tea and chocolates in the courtyards. But crepes and champagne.. much better idea for the next time. Thank for the comment Carolyn, Diana
I seem to remember walking and being thrilled by the tree lined wide avenue and the whole elegance of the area! Such an iconic area of Paris that it must be seen and taken in/absorbed at least once every 10(??) years! Can’t wait ( will I still be around) for the “Greening”!
You are right Juliette, I don’t think I need to go back there for a few years now… when we witness if it happens! A new mayor may change all that .. who knows? In the meantime, so much to explore else where in Paris non?
So exciting, and so much of that’being there’ feeling you will remember forever.
Somehow every trip I make to Paris is so memorable. When I am not there, you know me, I pine to be back. Lovely to hear from you, as always, Diana
The iconic Champs Elysee … fond memories of walking along the boulevard! Nothing stands out after all this time – except the excitement of actually being in this fabulous city! It was my first trip abroad and even my friend Lana and I had been staying at youth hostels up to this point, we treated ourselves to a hotel on the Left Bank, ate beigets & macaroons, visited the Louvre – and had a wonderful time!!
Oh my! Gretchen it sounds superb. Treating oneself is all part of the Paris experience isn’t it? I always wondered what it would have been like to say in a student hostel way back when we young. I never did that! Best to you, and thank you for the comment. Diana
What a wonderful memory!! My sister and I rented in the 5th for two weeks in 2011. We did walk the Champs Elysses to the Arc de Triomphe and then went to the top! We had tea and macarons at Lauderee and window shopped all the way. I had my picture taken in front of Louis Vuitton as well! Bon Voyage a tour!
Hi Chris, Sounds like a terrific memory and it must have been nice to rent in the 5th…so gorgeous. Wonderful to hear from you and thank you for sharing your story. Diana
My favourite memory of this iconic street happened when I was visiting pre-Christmas Paris a few years ago in December. The lights in the city were beautiful! My girlfriend and I spent our last evening in the city strolling the twinkling Champs-Élysées in a light rain. It was getting close to midnight and we should have been back in our hotel room packing for an early departure but instead I spontaneously and half-jokingly asked if she wanted to stop for a champagne in one of the (enclosed) sidewalk cafes. She did! 🥂
A glass of champagne at midnight on the Champs Elysees! What a memory to have. I must try that… thank you so much Susan!
Diana
My husband and took a stroll to the Champs Elysees oblivious to the fact that it was the end of the Tour de France. We realized something was going on with the amount of police around and many nearby streets blocked off. Although there was a massive number of tourists, we managed to get a table at a nice restaurant, had a lovely lunch and hung around to see the end of the race. Admittedly we aren’t big fans, but the atmosphere was great and we really enjoyed it.
I absolutely love, love, love reading your posts, Diana! They are so vivid, I feel like I’m there, and I can feel your joie de vivre! (-:
My husband and I are with you on our tendency to avoid the Champs Élysée. We do enjoy it at Christmas time as we’re taking in the lights in the City of Light. And — in 2017, we rushed over from our Montmartre apartment just in time to catch the Inaugural parade for Président Macron — where we actually caught a glimpse of “Le Kid”, himself! Exciting!
Carolyn, thank you so much. I appreciate hearing from you and thank you for the encouragement. I dream of catching a glimpse of the French president — lucky you! Diana
Loved this …. It was a walk down memory lane!
WE walked it together 6 years ago I think and we were just agog at it all!
There is nothing like it… C’est vrais !