A few years ago, I found myself dancing up a storm in what is known as the “little Marais market” in Paris.
It was a day in June when Paris holds its annual “Fête de la Musique”, or “Make Music Day.”
On this day, music of all kinds invades the city’s local neighbourhoods and streets.
That night there was something happening literally on every corner.
From the window of my apartment, I could hear techo “crap” blaring from a laptop in a store front; Heading out and down the street, I encountered a seasoned ensemble playing Big Band music in the community centre; around the corner a rock band was set up playing covers on a small side street; and in my favourite food market, there was disco. It was that music that hauled me in like a fish drawn to a bright-coloured lure.
The Little Marais Market
For I am not sure how long, I lost myself in a throbbing, pulsating crowd dancing with no one in particular in one tiny corner of this market called “Le marché couvert des enfants rouges,” or “the covered market of the red children.”
Lunchtime at the market
Japanese menu
This, I discovered, is the oldest covered food market in Paris (created in 1628) originally named after the orphans who wore red uniforms and lived in a nearby hospice.
Food Shopping in Le Marais
During the day mostly, the market bustles with activity as vendors display and sell their fresh produce, such as fruit, fish, vegetables, along with exotic cooked meals and snacks from Italy, Japan and Lebanon.
Here’s looking at you sweetheart!
Mushrooms of all kinds!
A beautiful bouquet of French radishes
In Paris, people shop almost every day so it is not unusual to go to the market to buy just a couple of things. I have learned that it is rude to feel, test or pick out produce as I might at home. The protocol is to point to what you want and allow the vendor to select and package it for you.
You often have to wait your turn but you can take as much time as you like quizzing vendors about where their blueberries came from, or what kind of cheeses they would recommend.
Flower shop in Le Marais market
Bouquet of flowers makes a nice gift if you are invited to dinner.
You will find this little market at 39 Rue de Bretagne in the Marais (3rd) arrondissement.
The market has been listed as a historic monument since 1982.
Have you got a favourite food market in Paris? Do tell us about it!
A mural at the entrance of the Marais market.
I just couldn’t stop taking pictures!
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Diana Bishop the founder of The Success Story Program and A Woman of a Certain Age in Paris as well as a well-known correspondent with over 25 years working for CTV, CBC News, and NBC News. She loves travel, writing, and all things Parisienne.
Fascinating to read of a market named after the children who lived nearby. I like that.
Me too — and I did not know about that until I looked it up on the internet! You can almost imagine the laughter of these little girls running through the market as they must have done back then.
Thanks for the comment Twink. Diana
Le Marais is such a vibrant place. The shopping trip sounds fantastic! One of these days i hope to go.
It is so central this market and one usually stumbles upon it when you are out doing something else.
It is also across the street from one of my favourite Bistros — Cafe Charlot. Always busy, but one
can usually find a table. Worth a nice lunch if you are in the area. Diana
Love this market but nobody was dancing first thing in the morning. This place makes you feel like a Parisian.
It does doesn’t it? I love going there anytime but haven’t danced there since that night! Great to hear from you Mary Lu! Diana
Bon Jour! When my husband and I were in St Germain several years ago we’d go get fresh croissants or a sandwich and head to the gardens to eat lunch or breakfast. I love shopping this way. It’s interactive and produces less waist. Trying to duplicate this in the states is difficult. The sense of community and interacting with people is appealing though! I appreciated this about Paris!–Timmithea
Yes, you are so right Timmithea — there is such a sense of community in Paris and in a market like to which the same
people return to over and over again. Shopping this way makes so much sense and you just build it into your day.
Great to hear from you! Diana
Nice Find!! I haven’t been around there yet, but now I feel inspired to go! thanks, Diana.
Do the vendors speak English, for non-french speakers?
Hi Addie, hope you are doing well. I hope you have had a chance to visit the Marais market!
The history of this market is intriguing, what a beautiful way to celebrate the children that once lived there. I agree techno music is “la merde”. It sounds like a lovely way to spend the afternoon. I’ve been saving your blogs to read, so saving three blogs to read all at once is heavenly to me, what a great escape! Thank you, Diana!
It is a lovely to spend a day, an afternoon and an evening. Le Marais is alive at all times of
day especially between May and November. One can enjoy it from a distance too!